Frequently Asked Questions: Table Top Epoxy
These are some of the most frequently asked questions that we get. We strongly suggest that you ALWAYS test the mixed epoxy on a sample piece BEFORE you apply to your final project, even if you are familiar with working with epoxy. The most common problem associated with using epoxy are inaccurate mix ratios or not mixing thoroughly enough. If you have any questions at all, please email us before you attempt your project. We are here to help!
This product says UV resistant. Can I use it on my outdoor projects?
Although there are UV inhibitors in the epoxy to help resist yellowing, all epoxies will yellow over time. It is not recommended you use this epoxy on your outdoor projects or projects that will be in direct sunlight (in a window).
My project is painted or stained with an oil based product, what can I do?
Oil and epoxy do NOT mix. You need to have a definitive barrier between the oil-based product and epoxy. You can apply a water based clear coat (must be water based). Once the water based clear coat has fully cured, you can apply the epoxy. If the clear coat leaves a shine/gloss, we suggest scuffing the surface to ensure the epoxy properly sticks. We recommend using 320 grit sandpaper. If you do sand, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface prior to applying the epoxy. We recommend using Isopropyl Alcohol 99% (be sure it is 99%) to clean. When in doubt, email us with specific questions.
Is your epoxy food safe?
It is possible to be Food Safe. However, because the customer is mixing/pouring we cannot say this is Food Safe. Each mixture/application would have to be assessed individually.
Can I use this epoxy for my kitchen countertops? Is it heat resistant?
You can use the epoxy for your countertops or tables. However, keep in mind this is not a high heat epoxy. It will start to soften around 120°F. We always recommend using hot pads and coasters for hot pans, plates, coffee mugs, etc.
What is the pot time for this resin?
Gel-Time 100 Gr. Mass @ 77F, Approx. 25 Min, Full cure 48 Hours, Hardness 70-75 Shore D
How much epoxy do I need to cover my project?
Our general rule is: 12 sq. ft. per mixed gallon at 1/8" or 24 at 1/16". Keep in mind that we recommend pouring no more than 1/4" per application. You can also use our Epoxy Coverage Calculator.
(1/2 Gallon A, 1/2 Gallon B)
(1/2 Pint A, 1/2 Pint B)
6 sq. ft
1-1/2 sq. ft.
12 sq. ft.
3 sq. ft.
24 sq. ft.
6 sq. ft.
48 sq. ft.
12 sq. ft.
96 sq. ft.
24 sq. ft.
What is the mix ratio for this epoxy?
It is a 1:1 mix ratio by liquid volume.
How long do I need to mix the epoxy?
We recommend mixing thoroughly for a minimum of 3-5 minutes. Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the container while mixing. Not mixing thoroughly may lead to curing issues. Ideally, you would pour the mixture into a second clean, dry container and mix for an additional 2-3 minutes. We recommend mixing no more than 1 gallon at a time. If you do mix 1 gallon, use a power mixer set to hand speed.
Why is my project still tacky? How do I fix it?
The epoxy should feel well cured after 24 hours, however, full cure and maximum hardness can take up to 7 days, depending on temperature. If it is still tacky, this likely means it was due to incomplete or inaccurate mixing. Small areas can be improved with an alcohol wash, but larger areas will need to be removed. If it is soft enough, try scraping it off. Otherwise, you will need to sand it down and pour again.
Can I use this epoxy for casting or thicker pours?
Yes, but we recommend pouring no more than 1/4 inch per application. Optimal wait time between applications is 4-6 hours (depending on temperature). It should be tacky to the touch. *NOTE: When cured, epoxy is not flexible. Projects, such as river tables, must be properly supported to help prevent cracking.
What is the best temperature/environment for working with this epoxy?
The ideal working temperature is around 77 degrees F, but best results can be obtained between 75 and 85 degrees F. We suggest working in a clean, dry and dust-free environment. We suggest working on a leveled and flat work surface.
How long do I need to wait to pour a second coat?
You can pour the second coat when the first coat is firm but still tacky to the touch (usually 4-6 hours after pouring, depending on temperature). If it has hardened completely, we suggest a light sanding before pouring the second coat to allow it to bond properly to the surface.
What do I do if my resin is cloudy or has crystallization?
BEFORE you pour, make sure your epoxy is crystal clear. If it is cloudy or crystallization appears, warm up your resin by placing the jugs into warm water or by putting in black trash bags out in the sun until it clears. Be sure to test your product on a sample piece before applying to your final project.
Can I pour this over painted wood? Do I have to sand before pouring?
This depends on the type of paint. We do not recommend pouring over an oil based stain/paint. If you have already used an oil-based stain or paint, you can apply a water based clear coat (must be water based). Once the water based clear coat has fully cured, you can apply the epoxy. If the clear coat leaves a shine/gloss you may want to scuff the surface to ensure the epoxy properly sticks. We recommend using 320 grit sandpaper. If you do sand, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface prior to applying the epoxy. We recommend using Isopropyl Alcohol 99% (be sure it is 99%) to clean. When in doubt, email us with specific questions.
How long is the epoxy good for after it has been opened?
If it is sealed back up and stored in a cool, dry place, you can get 1-2 years out of it. However, you will notice the color of the hardener start to yellow. Once mixed, this should clear up. However, please test the mixture before pouring on your final project.
I mixed the product according to the instructions but the mixture is not clear. Should I still pour? Will it clear up?
If your mixture is not crystal clear, you should NOT pour the epoxy on your final project. You can test a sample piece to see how it turns out, but you will likely need to mix a new batch. Please ensure you are mixing at the proper 1:1 by liquid volume ratio thoroughly, and that you are working in an ideal work environment/temperature as mentioned above.
I want to epoxy over patches, bottle caps, photos, etc. How do I keep them from floating in the resin? Do I need a seal coat?
If you are embedding objects to a surface, its important to secure these items to the surface so that they do not float in the flood coat. Its also important to seal over them to prevent an excessive amount of bubbles from holding to or releasing from the object. If it is a paper product, you will need to protect the paper first so that the epoxy does not ruin the paper (see next FAQ). There are a number of ways in which you can do this.
1. Pour a thin seal coat on the surface. Assuming the seal coat looks good, with no imperfections that would need to be addressed, then you can place the object (bottle caps, patches, etc.) in as soon as the epoxy begins to tack/gel. This is normally 1-3 hours, depending on temperature. This will then tack the object(s) down. Again, if no imperfections appear, you could then pour the flood coat at 4-6 hours after the seal coat.
2. You could pour a seal coat and allow the epoxy to cure until the surface is hard. You can then use glue on the underside of the objects to secure them in place. If you wait longer than 12 hours between seal coat and flood coat, we recommend a light sanding. You can use 320 grit sandpaper to sand the surface. If you do sand, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface prior to pouring the next layer. We recommend Isopropyl Alcohol 99% (must be 99%) to clean. Once the surface has been sanded and the patches/bottle caps/etc secured with glue, you can then pour the flood coat.
Again, if you are using paper products, see next FAQ on how to protect them.
How can I protect paper products, such as stickers or photos, when embedding them with epoxy?
Paper products need to be sealed before you apply epoxy over them as the epoxy could ruin the paper. For paper based items, we recommend sealing the paper with craft glue. Alternatively, a mixture of Elmers glue and water works well and is more cost effective. Mix 3 parts Elmer’s glue and 1 part water and paint the mixture over the paper products. Allow this seal coat to dry thoroughly before applying epoxy.